You start getting a feeling that things are different when you see the floating tachymeter scale, a translucent ring around the dial with numbers in red, including “88.” That’s highlighted because 8 was founder Roger Dubuis’ lucky number, and the current brand, having diverged so aggressively from its founder’s vision, has sought to establish some link back to him, however tenuous. It also has pink gold hour markers that double as a minutes scale. It has an hour hand and a minute hand, lumed and in pink gold and two chronograph hands, primary and rattrapante. There are some things that are, in fact, rather normal about the watch. Also unclear is the water resistance-though honestly, who cares?-but most of the brand’s pieces are 50m, so that’s probably a safe bet here. The main crown is at 2 o’clock, while pushers appear to be located opposite each other at 4 and 10 o’clock-their exact functions, and whether the crown may include its own pusher, is unclear. The form is dramatic and futuristic, like all the brands’ watches: the signature triple lugs descend like talons from the head of the watch, flowing into the fitted leather and rubber perforated strap. The case is accented with pink gold (for the crowns, pushers, crown guard, and fixed bezel), carbon, and grey and black-coated titanium, capped with a sapphire crystal. While measuring carpal tunnel-inducing 47mm, it’s made from Mineral Composite Fibre, made from 99.5% silica and 2.5 times lighter than ceramic and more than 10% lighter than carbon. Starting with the simplest aspect possible, let’s talk about the case. Also, it looks like it was made for Iron Man. Pitching it as the next step in “Hyper Horology,” the all-new Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph is packed with an entirely new winding system, a 360-degree tourbillon, and a retrograde chronograph display, housed in an avant-garde case made from ultralight materials-if your pockets are deep enough, this seems like the watch of the future. For Watches and Wonders 2023, Roger Dubuis has gone right ahead and rethought not just the chronograph, but how a watch is even wound. One of the pioneers in skeletonization, Roger Dubuis, is an important player in Hyper Horology.While a far cry from its founder’s vision for haute horlogerie, Roger Dubuis is a brand that never shies away from innovation, even if it means scaring off a few people. Their limited edition collections feature High Complications encased in groundbreaking choice of materials, with 33 exclusive in-house mechanical calibers developed since the brand’s creation. Today, Roger Dubuis is a fully integrated Manufacture that specializes in innovation and creativity. The Richemont Group purchased 60% of the company, and in 2016, the remaining 40%. By 2006 the brand had developed 28 proprietary calibers, all with the Poincon de Genève (Geneva Seal).Ģ008 marked a new chapter in Roger Dubuis’s history, as it was acquired in part by the Richemont group. The iconic Excalibur collection was launched in 2005, featuring an exclusive double tourbillon skeleton movement (RD01SQ). The Manufacture is a striking building featuring glass walls housing state-of-the-art watchmaking facilities inside. The year 2001 marked the build of the impressive Manufacture on the outskirts of Geneva, in Meyrin. By 1999 Roger Dubuis designed and manufactured its first in-house movements, all bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. The year marked the launch of their first collections. Roger Dubuis, the company, was founded in 1995 by Roger Dubuis, a gifted master watchmaker, and Carlos Dias, a businessman and talented designer.
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